Falk Feddersen¹, Adam Fincham², Matthew S Spydell³, Katherine L Brodie⁴, Adam Young⁵, Derek Jeffrey Grimes⁶, Brittany Lynn Bruder⁷, Nicholas Spore⁴, Patrick Dickhudt⁷, Alex Poirot², Gerald Kubiak² and Ken Lucas², (1)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (2)World Surf League Wave Company, United States, (3)SIO, La Jolla, CA, United States, (4)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Field Research Facility, Duck, NC, United States, (5)University of California San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (6)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Integrative Oceanography Division, La Jolla, CA, United States, (7)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Duck, NC, United States