Predicting the Onset and Strength of Breaking of Surface Gravity Waves from Deep to Shallow Water
James T Kirby Jr, University of Delaware, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Newark, DE, United States, Morteza Derakhti, Applied Physics Laboratory University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States, Michael L Banner, c/o The University of NSW, Sydney, NSW, Australia, Stephan T Grilli, University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI, United States and Jim Thomson, University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States