CP011
Nearshore Processes

Session ID#: 85047

Session Description:
The nearshore region is the transition zone from land to the open ocean. This region spans drastically different dynamical regimes with varying roles of waves, wind, tides, buoyancy, and morphology. The vulnerability of the coast to sea level rise, extreme storms, and anthropogenic influences is a major societal concern. Abstracts focusing on physical processes occurring in the nearshore region from the subaerial beach to the shelf break are invited. Interesting topics include: 1) surface and internal wave dynamics, 2) wind-, wave-, and tide-driven circulation, 3) extreme events in nearshore and river integrated systems, 4) mixing and turbulence, 5) cross-shelf exchange, 6) sediment transport and morphologic evolution, 7) process-based ecological or biological nearshore interactions. We welcome abstracts describing field observations (both remotely sensed and in-situ), numerical and laboratory modeling, theoretical analysis, and model-data assimilation. The nearshore processes session is an established and well-attended session in which student participation is strongly encouraged.
Index Terms:

3020 Littoral processes [MARINE GEOLOGY AND GEOPHYSICS]
4217 Coastal processes [OCEANOGRAPHY: GENERAL]
4546 Nearshore processes [OCEANOGRAPHY: PHYSICAL]


Primary Chair:  Jenna A Brown, U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St Petersburg, FL, United States
Co-chairs:  Sylvia Rodriguez-Abudo, University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Department of Engineering Sciences and Materials, Mayaguez, PR, United States and Christie Hegermiller, USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States
Primary Liaison:  Jenna A Brown, U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St Petersburg, FL, United States
 
Submesoscale Influence on Nearshore Lagrangian Transport: How Important is Resolution to Simulated Coastal Connectivity? (492326)
Daniel Dauhajre, University of California, Los Angeles, Atmospheric and Oceanic Sciences, Los Angeles, CA, United States, James C McWilliams, UCLA, Los Angeles, CA, United States and Lionel Renault, University of California Los Angeles, Atmospheric and Oceanic Sciences, Los Angeles, CA, United States
 
Infragravity wave generation by nonlinear interaction between wind waves and wind gusts (493962)
Yaron Toledo, Teodor Vrecica and Rotem Soffer, Tel-Aviv University, School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv, Israel
 
Numerical wave modeling with a Boussinesq-type model against insitu and LIDAR recorded field data on a sandy beach at Duck, NC (635823)
Gabriela Salgado, USACE - Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Vicksburg, MS, United States, Matt Malej, USACE-Coastal & Hydraulics Lab, Vicksburg, MS, United States, Katherine L Brodie, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Field Research Facility, Duck, NC, United States, Spicer Bak, US Army Corps of Engineers, Jacksonville, FL, United States, Ty Hesser, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Vicksburg, MS, United States and Fengyan Shi, University of Delaware, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Newark, DE, United States
 
Estuarine phosphorus transformation, retention and bioavailability: an example from the southern Baltic Sea (636117)
Lisa Rönspieß1, Olaf Dellwig1, Xaver Lange2, Thomas Leipe1, Günther Nausch1 and Detlef E Schulz-Bull3, (1)Leibniz Institute for Baltic Sea Research, Rostock, Germany, (2)Leibniz Institute for Baltic Sea Research Warnemuende, Germany, (3)Leibniz Institute for Baltic Sea Research, Marine Chemistry, Rostock, Germany
 
Coastal Warm Water Events Observed Using a Vertical Profiler (637762)
Young-Gyu Park, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology, Seoul, South Korea, Dong Guk Kim, KIOST, Ocean Circulation and Climate Research Center, Busan, South Korea, Seongbong Seo, Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, Busan, South Korea, Joocheul Noh, KIOST Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, Ansan, South Korea and Hong Sik Min, KIOST, Ocean Circulation and Climate Research Center, Ansan, South Korea
 
Global Regression Modelling of Fresh Submarine Groundwater Discharge (FSGD) Using Multivariable Analysis of Aquifer Characteristics (637859)
Mark Allen Henry1, Natasha Dimova2, Nils Moosdorf3 and Grey Stephen Nearing2, (1)University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa, AL, United States, (2)University of Alabama, Geological Sciences, Tuscaloosa, AL, United States, (3)Leibniz-Zentrum für Marine Tropenökologie (ZMT) GmbH, Bremen, Germany
 
Coherent interference of ocean swell over submarine canyons (637980)
Hitoshi Tamura, Port and Airport Research Institute, Kanagawa, Japan
 
Tridimensional Wave-Resolving Modeling of Nearshore Dynamics (638414)
Patrick Marchesiello, IRD Institute for Research and Development, France, Rachid Benshila, CNRS, Paris Cedex 16, France, Francis Auclair, Laboratoire d'Aérologie - Observatoire Midi Pyrénées, Toulouse, France, Rafael Almar, LEGOS, CNES, Toulouse, France and James C McWilliams, UCLA, Los Angeles, CA, United States
 
Estuarine salt-plug induced by a freshwater pulse from the inner shelf (639761)
Braulio Juarez, University of Florida, Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States, Arnoldo Valle-Levinson, University of Florida - UF, Engineering School of Sustainable Infrastructure & Environment, Gainesville, FL, United States and Chunyuan Li, Louisiana State University, Oceanography and Coastal Sciences, United States
 
Impact of Oyster Reefs on Wave Climate along a Marsh Edge (640106)
Jacob Bushey1, Matthew Abraham Reidenbach2, Sara Hogan3 and William Kearney3, (1)United States, (2)University of Virginia Main Campus, Charlottesville, VA, United States, (3)University of Virginia, Environmental Sciences, United States
 
Short-term analysis on shoreline morphological changes due to coastal structures (640351)
Thiruvenkatasamy K and Ayyappan K Mr., AMET UNIVERSITY, HARBOUR & OCEAN ENGINEERING, Chennai, India
 
A Numerical Study of Water Exchange Processes in the Dongsha Atoll (641252)
Shi-Ming Chen1, Shih-Nan Chen2, Wu-ting Tsai3 and Yi-Chia Hsin1, (1)Research Center for Environmental Changes, Academia Sinica, Taipei, Taiwan, (2)Institute of Oceanography, National Taiwan University, Taipei, Taiwan, (3)Department of Engineering Science and Ocean Engineering, National Taiwan University, Taipei, Taiwan
 
Nearshore wave transformation over a rocky reef shoreline (641661)
James H MacMahan, Casey J Gon and Edward B Thornton, Naval Postgraduate School, Oceanography, Monterey, CA, United States
 
Feature extraction of coastal waves based on phase-resolved simulation and bidimensional empirical mode decomposition (641670)
Lian Shen, St. Anthony Falls Laboratory, Minneapolis, MN, United States and Xuanting Hao, University of Minnesota, Department of Mechanical Engineering, Minneapolis, MN, United States
 
Ensemble simulations of munitions mobility (641768)
Margaret Palmsten1, Allison Penko2, Jayaram Veeramony3, Shawn R Harrison3 and Sarah E Rennie4, (1)US Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC, United States, (2)Naval Research Lab Stennis Space Center, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States, (3)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States, (4)Johns Hopkins Univ, Laurel, MD, United States
 
Ensemble simulations of nearshore hydrodynamics and morphologic evolution (641772)
Allison Penko1, Margaret Palmsten1, Jayaram Veeramony1, Shawn R Harrison1, Kacey L Edwards1, Sarah Margaret Trimble1,2 and Wonhyun Lee1,2, (1)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States, (2)National Research Council Postdoctoral Fellow, United States
 
A Large-Eddy Simulation Study on the Flow Structure of a Solitary Wave Breaking in the Inner-Surf and Swash Zones (642059)
Benjamin Tsai1, Yeulwoo Kim2 and Tian-Jian Hsu1, (1)University of Delaware, Civil and Environmental Engineering, Newark, DE, United States, (2)University of California Los Angeles, Civil and Environmental Engineering, Los Angeles, CA, United States
 
Impact of Hurricane Barry (2019) on the inner shelf circulation and exchange flow of Barataria Bay (642219)
Chunyan Li1, Wei Huang2, Brian Milan2, MIke D Miner3, Alex Sheremet4, Ioannis Y Georgiou5, Kehui Xu6, Kanchan Maiti2, Jie Wang7 and Mingming Li8, (1)Louisiana State University, Department of Oceanography and Coastal Sciences, Baton Rouge, LA, United States, (2)Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA, United States, (3)BOEM, Gulf of Mexico Region, New Orleans, LA, United States, (4)University of Florida, Engineering School of Sustainable Infrastructure & Environment (ESSIE), Gainesville, FL, United States, (5)University of New Orleans, New Orleans, LA, United States, (6)Louisiana State University, Oceanography and Coastal Sciences, Baton Rouge, LA, United States, (7)Hohai University, China, (8)University Bremen, Bremen, Germany
 
Wave-Breaking Modulation by Infragravity Waves (642250)
Yoshinao Matsuba, University of Tokyo, Bunkyo-ku, Japan, Takenori Shimozono, University of Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan and Shinji Sato, Kochi University of Technology, Japan
 
Asymmetric Wave Shape Parameterization Estimates From Fire Island Observations (642320)
Tarandeep Singh Kalra, USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States, Steven E Suttles, U.S. Geological Survey, Woods Hole, MA, United States, Christopher R Sherwood, U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, USGS, Woods Hole, MA, United States and John C Warner, U.S. Geological Survey, Falmouth, MA, United States
 
Sandy beach evolution under the climate change and increasing anthropogenic pressure: Eastern Baltic Sea case (642968)
Vitalijus Kondrat, Ilona Sakurova, Egle Baltranaite, Toma Dabuleviciene and Loreta Kelpsaite-Rimkiene, Klaipeda University, Klaipeda, Lithuania
 
Modelling of hurricane impacts on US barrier islands (643057)
Ap Van Dongeren1, Marlies Antoinette van der Lugt1, Ellen Quataert1, Maarten Van Ormondt2, Christopher R Sherwood3 and Jenna A Brown4, (1)Deltares, Delft, Netherlands, (2)Deltares, Netherlands, (3)Organization Not Listed, Washington, DC, United States, (4)U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St Petersburg, FL, United States
 
The Effect of Wind on Wave Shape in Shallow Water (643093)
Thomas Zdyrski and Falk Feddersen, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Modelling Cross-Shore and Alongshore Transport on a Meso-Tidal Beach (643236)
Christopher R Sherwood, U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, USGS, Woods Hole, MA, United States, Alfredo Aretxabaleta, USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States, John C Warner, U.S. Geological Survey, Falmouth, MA, United States and Tarandeep Singh Kalra, US Geological Survey, Woods Hole, MA, United States
 
Explicit Relaxation Technique for Solving the Green-Naghdi Equations for Dispersive Waves (643297)
Eric Tovar1, Jean-Luc Guermond1, Bojan Popov1, Christopher E Kees2 and Aggelos Dimakopoulos3, (1)Texas A&M University, Mathematics, College Station, TX, United States, (2)US Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Vicksburg, MS, United States, (3)HR Wallingford, Wallingford, United Kingdom
 
Numerical Framework for Interacting Flexible Submerged Aquatic Vegetation Blades (643500)
Yu Zhang1, Xiao Yu2 and Michael T Davidson1, (1)University of Florida, Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States, (2)University of Florida, Engineering School of Sustainable Infrastructure & Environment, Gainesville, FL, United States
 
Wave-induced Mean Currents Flowing Through Submerged Vegetation (643760)
Stephen M Henderson, Washington State University Vancouver, School of the Environment, Vancouver, WA, United States
 
The Hydraulics of Deception Pass (643958)
Chris L Paternostro1, Lorraine A Heilman2, Greg Dusek2, Katie Anne Kirk3, Carl Kammerer1 and Drew Maczko4, (1)NOAA Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, Silver Spring, MD, United States, (2)NOAA National Ocean Service, Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, Silver Spring, MD, United States, (3)NOAA Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, Durham, NH, United States, (4)NOAA Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, Silver Spring, WA, United States
 
Coastal trapped waves in high-scattering regions: Observations of scattering modes and comparison to theory near the Outer Banks, North Carolina (644114)
Kelsey Elizabeth Brunner1, Kamazima M M Lwiza1 and David Rivas2, (1)Stony Brook University, Stony Brook, NY, United States, (2)CICESE, Biological Oceanography, Ensenada, Baja California, BJ, Mexico
 
Wave Dissipation by Bottom Friction on a Rough Rocky Reef (644251)
Edward B Thornton, Casey J Gon and Jamie MacMahan, Naval Postgraduate School, Oceanography, Monterey, CA, United States
 
Effects of Wave Breaking Formulations and Wave Nonlinearity on XBeach Performance for Onshore and Offshore Sediment Transport Event (644415)
Takayuki Suzuki, Yokohama National University, Yokohama, Japan and Daniel Thomas Cox, Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Eng., Corvallis, OR, United States
 
Investigating the Link Between Three-dimensional Wave Transformation Patterns and Shore Platform Morphology. (644503)
Raphael Krier-mariani, University of Otago, School of Geography, Dunedin, New Zealand, Wayne J Stephenson, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand, Sarah Wakes, University of Otago, Department of Mathematics and Statistics, Dunedin, New Zealand and Mark E Dickson, University of Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand
 
Acoustical measurements and modeling of mixed-grainsize sediment under breaking waves (644914)
Natalie Harris, Columbia University, Kirkland, WA, Greg Wilson, Oregon State University, CEOAS, Corvallis, OR, United States and Patrick Dickhudt, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Duck, NC, United States
 
Ocean Waves, Sea Ice, and Coastal Protection Along Alaska’s North Slope (644924)
Lucia Hosekova1,2, Nirnimesh Kumar3, W. Erick Rogers4 and James M Thomson1, (1)Applied Physics Laboratory University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States, (2)University of Reading, Reading, United Kingdom, (3)University of Washington, Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Seattle, WA, United States, (4)Naval Research Lab, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States
 
A Numerical Study of Swash Driven by a Plunging Solitary Wave Over a Permeable Sandy Beach (644950)
Yeulwoo Kim, Marie-Pierre Delisle and Timu Gallien, University of California Los Angeles, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Los Angeles, CA, United States
 
Wave-induced sediment transport in a coupled berm-dune system: a near prototype experiment. (644964)
Maro Pontiki1, Jack Anthony Puleo1, Rusty A Feagin2, Meagan E. Wengrove3, Tian-Jian Hsu1 and Daniel Thomas Cox4, (1)University of Delaware, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Newark, DE, United States, (2)Texas A & M University, Ecosystem Science and Management, College Station, TX, United States, (3)Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States, (4)Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Eng., Corvallis, OR, United States
 
Three-dimensional subcritical transition to turbulence in the bottom boundary layer under a solitary wave (645028)
Asim Onder and Philip L-F. Liu, National University of Singapore, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Singapore, Singapore
 
A field and numerical investigation of wave influences on river-mouth depositional process (645124)
Yu Ching Huang1, Jia-Lin Chen1, Chun-Hung Pao1, Hung-En Chen2 and Chong-Li Tsai2, (1)National Cheng Kung University, Department of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering, Tainan, Taiwan, (2)NCKU Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering R&D Foundation, Taiwan
 
Changes in coastal lithodynamical processes of semi-enclosed seas under changing climate: the case of Lithuania (645317)
Ilona Sakurova1, Vitalijus Kondrat1, Egle Baltranaite1, Toma Dabuleviciene1, Loreta Kelpsaite-Rimkiene1 and Tarmo Soomere2, (1)Klaipeda University, Klaipeda, Lithuania, (2)Tallinn University of Technology, Estonia
 
Observations of Wind Effects on Shoaling Wave Shape (645562)
Falk Feddersen1, Adam Fincham2, Matthew S Spydell3, Katherine L Brodie4, Adam Young5, Derek Jeffrey Grimes6, Brittany Lynn Bruder7, Nicholas Spore4, Patrick Dickhudt7, Alex Poirot2, Gerald Kubiak2 and Ken Lucas2, (1)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (2)World Surf League Wave Company, United States, (3)SIO, La Jolla, CA, United States, (4)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Field Research Facility, Duck, NC, United States, (5)University of California San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (6)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Integrative Oceanography Division, La Jolla, CA, United States, (7)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Duck, NC, United States
 
The contribution of aeolian and marine processes to decadal coastal dune evolution along the Dutch coast. (645609)
Christa van IJzendoorn, Delft, Netherlands, Sierd de Vries, TU Delft, Delft, Netherlands and Caroline Hallin, Delft University of Technology, Delft, Netherlands
 
FJORD BASIN WATER EXCHANGE IN SILL NORWEGIAN FJORDS (645975)
Ingrid Askeland Johnsen, Institute of Marine Research Bergen, Bergen, Norway and Mari Skuggedal Myksvoll, Institute of Marine Research, Bergen, Norway
 
Observations of Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics During Storm and Recovery Periods on a Low-Wave Energy Beach on the Florida Gulf Coast (646164)
Jenna A Brown1, Joseph W Long2, Justin J Birchler1 and Kara S Doran3, (1)U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St Petersburg, FL, United States, (2)University of North Carolina at Wilmington, Earth and Ocean Sciences, Wilmington, NC, United States, (3)U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St. Petersburg, FL, United States
 
Assessing Storm Impact on a Stretch of Coast of Puerto Rico using Morphodynamic Modeling (646303)
Peter Gabriel Rivera Casillas, University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Mayaguez, PR, United States and Patricia Chardon-Maldonado, Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States
 
Synthetic Pore Pressure Signals from Seabed Surface Wave Signals within Sandy Seafloors (646318)
Matthew Florence, United States and Nina Stark, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Blacksburg, VA, United States
 
Turbulent Erosion of a Sharp Density Interface (646346)
Blair A Johnson, University of Texas at Austin, Austin, TX, United States and Joel A Lagade Jr, University of Texas at Austin, Civil, Architectural, & Environmental Engineering, Austin, TX, United States
 
Relation between Observed Morphological Changes and the Storm Impact Regime Histogram during Hurricanes Matthew (2016) and Dorian (2019) (646442)
Maitane Olabarrieta1, Chu-En Hsu1, Christie Hegermiller2, Christian Rojas3, John C Warner2, Christopher R Sherwood2 and Luming SHI1, (1)University of Florida, Gainesville, FL, United States, (2)USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States, (3)University of Florida, Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States
 
Using Ensembles to Predict Storm Surge During Hurricane Michael and Hurricane Maria. (646877)
Jayaram Veeramony, Naval Research Lab, Stennis Space Center, United States and Kacey L Edwards, U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States
 
Effects of Wave Streaming and Wave Variations on Nearshore Wave-driven Circulation (646881)
Peng Wang, University of California Los Angeles, Atmospheric and Oceanic Sciences, Los Angeles, United States, James C McWilliams, UCLA, Los Angeles, CA, United States, Yusuke Uchiyama, Kobe University, Kobe, Japan and Mickael Chekroun, University of California Los Angeles, Los Angeles, CA, United States
 
Low Frequency Vessel-Generated Waves in a Tidal River (647008)
Alexandra Muscalus, Georgia Institute of Technology Main Campus, Atlanta, GA, United States and Kevin A. Haas, Georgia Institute of Technology Main Campus, Civil and Environmental Engineering, Atlanta, United States
 
Nearshore circulation and sediment transport at a barrier island breach during Hurricane Matthew (2016) (647383)
Christie Hegermiller, USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States, John C Warner, U.S. Geological Survey, Falmouth, MA, United States, Maitane Olabarrieta, University of Florida, Ft Walton Beach, FL, United States and Christopher R Sherwood, Organization Not Listed, Washington, DC, United States
 
An Assessment of a high fidelity hurricane storm surge model for recent storm events (647664)
Jeane Camelo, University of Central Florida, Civil, Environmental, And Construction Engineering Department, Orlando, United States and Talea Mayo, University of Central Florida, Department of Civil, Environmental, and Construction Engineering, Orlando, FL, United States
 
Natural and Nature-Based Coastal Defenses: Closing the Gap on the Potential Protection from Marshes in the US East Coast (647778)
Tyler Will Miesse1, Andre de Souza de Lima2, Juan Luis Garzon Hervas3 and Celso Ferreira2, (1)George Mason University Fairfax, Fairfax, VA, United States, (2)George Mason University, Fairfax, VA, United States, (3)George Mason University Fairfax, Department of Civil, Environmental and Infrastructure Engineering, Fairfax, VA, United States
 
Shear Instabilities of Tidal Currents in Inlets and Estuaries (647988)
Katie Anne Kirk, NOAA Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, Durham, NH, United States; University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Earth Sciences, Oceanography, Durham, NH, United States and Thomas Charles Lippmann, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH, United States
 
Seismic spectral signatures of individual wave impacts on coastal cliffs (648089)
Catriona Thompson1, Mark E Dickson1 and Adam Young2, (1)University of Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand, (2)University of California San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Nearshore Bathymetry and Surface Current Retrieval from Moving Wave Patterns Observed by Spaceborne Radar (648196)
Roland Romeiser, University of Miami, Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, Miami, FL, United States and Hans Christian Graber, University of Miami, Center for Southeastern Tropical Advanced Remote Sensing, Miami, FL, United States
 
Laboratory observations of the intermittent growth of edge waves with random incident waves (648250)
Xuelin Ding1, Giovanni Coco2, Robert T Guza3, Roland Garnier4, Colin Whittaker5, Robert A Dalrymple6, Zhangping Wei7, Pedro Lomonaco8, Paolo Blondeaux9 and Giovanna Vittori9, (1)University of Auckland, School of Environment, Auckland, New Zealand, (2)University of Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand, (3)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (4)Environmental Hydraulics Institute, Universidad de Cantabria, Santander, Spain, (5)University of Auckland, Civil and Environmental Engineering, Auckland, New Zealand, (6)Johns Hopkins University, Department of Civil Engineering, Baltimore, MD, United States, (7)Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD, United States, (8)Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, United States, (9)University of Genova, Genova, Italy
 
Transient and morphologic rip current dynamics on an alongshore variable beach (648747)
Annika O'Dea1, Nirnimesh Kumar2 and Merrick C Haller1, (1)Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States, (2)Scripps Institute of Oceanography, Columbia, SC, United States
 
Wave Energy Reflection from a Rocky Shoreline (648764)
Lucero Dorantes1, Kevin O'Brien2, Casey J Gon2 and James H MacMahan3, (1)Cornell University, Earth and Atmospheric Sciences - Ocean Sciences, Ithaca, NY, United States, (2)Naval Postgraduate School, Oceanography, Monterey, CA, United States, (3)Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA, United States
 
Effect of Tidal Range on Undertow Distributions Based on Exceedance Probability Analysis (648962)
Kullachart Borribunnangkun, Bankhai, Rayong, Rayong, Thailand and Takayuki Suzuki, Yokohama National University, Yokohama, Japan
 
Morphodynamic evolution of a natural Inlet (649051)
Timothy Robert Nelson1, Jennifer L Miselis1 and Maarten Van Ormondt2, (1)USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center St. Petersburg, St Petersburg, FL, United States, (2)Deltares, Netherlands
 
Exploring Impact of Wave Climate Characterization on Drift-Aligned Gravel Barrier Evolution Using a Vector-Based Coastal Evolution Model (650780)
Benjamin Thomas Phillips1,2, Jennifer M. Brown2, Martin D Hurst3 and Andrew J Plater1, (1)University of Liverpool, Department of Geography and Planning, Liverpool, United Kingdom, (2)National Oceanography Center, Liverpool, United Kingdom, (3)University of Glasgow, Glasgow, United Kingdom
 
Predicting Nearshore Hydrodynamics Using the Coupled Ocean Atmosphere Prediction System (COAMPS) (650795)
Kacey L Edwards1, Timothy J Campbell2 and Jayaram Veeramony1, (1)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States, (2)Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States
 
Isolating time scales of drivers and shoreline response to predict shoreline changes. (650935)
Jennifer Katherine Montaño Muñoz1, Giovanni Coco1, Laura Cagigal Gil1,2, Ana Rueda2, Fernando J. Mendez2 and Karin R Bryan3, (1)University of Auckland, School of Environment, Auckland, New Zealand, (2)University of Cantabria, Ciencias y Tecnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente, Santander, Spain, (3)University of Waikato, School of Science, Hamilton, New Zealand
 
Predicting nearshore sandbar migration using XBeach (650942)
Tian-Jian Hsu1, Yashar Rafati2, Ap Van Dongeren3 and Ellen Quataert3, (1)University of Delaware, Civil & Environmental Eng., Newark, DE, United States, (2)University of Delaware, Newark, DE, United States, (3)Deltares, Delft, Netherlands
 
Linear Bottom Friction in Tidal Estuaries with Superimposed Ripples and Reversing Mega-Ripples (651039)
Peter Traykovski1, Zhen Cheng1, Christie Hegermiller2, David K Ralston3 and W Rockwell Geyer1, (1)Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering, Woods Hole, MA, United States, (2)USGS Coastal and Marine Science Center Woods Hole, Woods Hole, MA, United States, (3)WHOI, Applied Ocean Physics & Engineering, Woods Hole, MA, United States
 
Low-frequency current oscillations triggered by wave-current interactions in a mixed-energy tidal inlet (651215)
Christian Rojas, University of Florida, Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States, Maitane Olabarrieta, University of Florida, Ft Walton Beach, FL, United States, John C Warner, U.S. Geological Survey, Falmouth, MA, United States, Xavier Bertin, Université de La Rochelle, La Rochelle, France and Arnoldo Valle-Levinson, University of Florida, Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, Ft Walton Beach, FL, United States
 
A Eulerian Two-Phase Modeling of Ripple Dynamics (651347)
Ali Salimi Tarazouj, University of Delaware, Newark, DE, United States, Zhen Cheng, Convergent Science, United States, Tian-Jian Hsu, University of Delaware, Civil & Environmental Eng., Newark, DE, United States, Peter Traykovski, Woods Hole Oceanograph Inst, Falmouth, MA, United States and Julien Chauchat, Univ. Grenoble Alpes, LEGI, Grenoble, France
 
Observations and Modeling of Morphological Change in a Tidal Channel at Seasonal to Annual Time Scales (651420)
David K Ralston, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Applied Ocean Physics and Engineering, Woods Hole, MA, United States and Peter Traykovski, Woods Hole Oceanograph Inst, Falmouth, MA, United States
 
Subtidal contributions to hydro- and morpho-dynamics at a wave dominated inlet system (651440)
Joshua L Humberston, University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Durham, NH, United States, Thomas Charles Lippmann, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH, United States and Jesse McNinch, US Army Corps of Engineers, Field Research Facility, Kitty Hawk, NC, United States
 
Real-time high-resolution forecasting of the coastal ocean during a hurricane (651695)
Alexander Rey, Queen's University, Civil Engineering, Kingston, ON, Canada and Ryan P Mulligan, Queen''s University, Kingston, ON, Canada
 
Bedform Erosion and Roughness: Decoupling Biological and Physical Processes (652431)
Carter DuVal, Naval Research Lab Stennis Space Center, Stennis Space Center, DE, United States, Arthur C Trembanis, University of Delaware, School of Marine Science and Policy, Newark, DE, United States and Douglas Miller, University of Delaware, School of Marine Science and Policy, Lewes, DE, United States
 
Numerical Simulations of Nearshore Wave Processes using the Phase-Resolving SWASH Model in Tres Palmas and Isla Verde Marine Reserves, Puerto Rico (652437)
Colin Evans1, Miguel Canals1, Patricia Chardon-Maldonado2, Shawn R Harrison3, Olivia M Cheriton4, Joshua B Logan4, Kurt J Rosenberger4, Daniel J. Nowacki5, Cordell D Johnson4 and Curt Daron Storlazzi6, (1)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Mayaguez, PR, United States, (2)Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States, (3)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, United States, (4)USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA, United States, (5)University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States, (6)USGS Pacific Science Ctr, Santa Cruz, CA, United States
 
Predicting the Onset and Strength of Breaking of Surface Gravity Waves from Deep to Shallow Water (652609)
James T Kirby Jr, University of Delaware, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Newark, DE, United States, Morteza Derakhti, Applied Physics Laboratory University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States, Michael L Banner, c/o The University of NSW, Sydney, NSW, Australia, Stephan T Grilli, University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI, United States and Jim Thomson, University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States
 
Characterizing the Impact of Wave-Current Interaction on Nearshore Sediment Transport (652658)
Julia Hopkins, Delft University of Technology, Delft, Netherlands, Matthieu Andreas de Schipper, Delft University of Technology, Hydraulic Engineering, Delft, Netherlands and Meagan E. Wengrove, University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Durham, NH, United States
 
The Evolution and Effects of Infragravity Waves inside Low Inflow Estuaries with Shallow Inlets (652795)
Duncan Wheeler1, Sarah N Giddings1, Madeleine Harvey2 and Janet M Becker3, (1)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (2)Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UCSD, La Jolla, CA, United States, (3)University of California San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Forecasting Coastal Erosion Hazards during Hurricane Florence in September 2018 along the North Carolina Coast (652894)
Justin J Birchler, U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St Petersburg, FL, United States and Kara S Doran, U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St. Petersburg, FL, United States
 
Sediment transport and wave attenuation behind patches of flexible aquatic vegetation: Findings from a full-scale laboratory experiment (653016)
Elizabeth Rita Holzenthal, Meagan E. Wengrove and David Hill, Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States
 
Observations and modeling of wave overtopping at Imperial Beach, California (653234)
Cassandra Henderson1, Mark A Merrifield1, Julia W Fiedler1, Bonnie C Ludka2, Adam Young1 and Robert T Guza1, (1)University of California San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, (2)UCSD, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Beach response, shoreline water levels, and surf-zone hydrodynamics measured during Hurricane Dorian in Duck, NC (653913)
Katherine L Brodie1, Patrick Dickhudt1, Nicholas Cohn2, Britt Raubenheimer3, Brittany Lynn Bruder1, Nick Spore1, Levi Gorrell3, Ian Conery4 and Steve Elgar3, (1)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Duck, NC, United States, (2)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Field Research Facility, Duck, NC, United States, (3)Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA, United States, (4)U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, Duck, United States
 
Hydrodynamic Simulations in Support of Beach Water Quality Assessments at a Tropical Beach with Fringing Reefs (654212)
Donya P FrankGilchrist, DPF Oceanographic and Coastal Analysis, LLC, Slidell, LA, United States and Sylvia Rodriguez-Abudo, University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Department of Engineering Sciences and Materials, Mayaguez, PR, United States
 
Observations of Water Content and Fluid Pressure within the Interior of an Eroding Beach Dune (654262)
Hailey Bond, Oregon State University, Civil and Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States, Meagan E. Wengrove, Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States, Jack Anthony Puleo, Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States, Rusty A Feagin, Texas A & M University, Ecosystem Science and Management, College Station, TX, United States and Brina Montoya, North Carolina State University Raleigh, Raleigh, NC, United States
 
Modeling nearshore storm waves with unstructured implicit WAVEWATCH III in Duck, NC (654313)
Tyler Hesser1, Mary Anderson Bryant2, Ali Abdolali3, Aron Roland4 and Jane McKee Smith2, (1)USACE ERDC CHL, Vicksburg, MS, United States, (2)ERDC, Vicksburg, MS, United States, (3)NOAA/NWS, College Park, United States, (4)BGS IT&E GMBH, Darmstadt, Germany
 
Algal Wrack Community Composition and Succession on a Sandy Beach in San Diego, CA (654401)
Marisol Palomares, University of San Diego, Environmental and Ocean Sciences, San Diego, CA, United States and Drew M Talley, University of San Diego, Marine Sciences, San Diego, CA, United States
 
The implications of uncertainties in HF radar observations for measuring small-scale surface current structures (654530)
Brian M Emery, University of California Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara, CA, United States, Anthony Kirincich, Woods Hole Oceanographic Inst, Woods Hole, MA, United States, Libe Washburn, Marine Science Institute, Santa Barbara, CA, United States and Pierre J Flament, University of Hawaii, Honolulu, HI, United States
 
Spatiotemporal Analysis of Cuspate Features within the Shoreface-To-Shelf Transition Zone, Grand Strand, South Carolina (654748)
Christina Boyce, Coastal Carolina University, Conway, SC, United States and Paul T Gayes, Coastal Carolina Univ, Burroughs and Chapin Center for Marine and Wetland Studies, Conway, SC, United States
 
Observations of Tides, Waves, and Erosion on a Low-lying Barrier Island During Hurricane Nate (655025)
Bret M Webb, University of South Alabama, Mobile, AL, United States, Jeff Coogan, University of South Alabama, Marine Science, Mobile, AL, United States, Stephanie M Smallegan, Virginia Tech, Christiansburg, VA, United States and Jack Anthony Puleo, Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States
 
Wave-Driven Coastal Processes Through the Eyes of Three Phase-Resolving Models (655125)
Assaf Azouri1, Volker Roeber2, Martin D. Guiles1, Douglas S Luther3, Melissa Iwamoto4, Tara Owens5 and Janet M Becker6, (1)University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI, United States, (2)Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour, Anglet, France, (3)Univ Hawaii Manoa, Honolulu, HI, United States, (4)Pacific Islands Ocean Observing System, Honolulu, HI, United States, (5)University of Hawaii Sea Grant, Wailuku, HI, United States, (6)Univ of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI, United States
 
New stochastic and deterministic wave evolution models in coastal waters (655200)
Teodor Vrecica and Yaron Toledo, Tel-Aviv University, School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv, Israel
 
Using Temperature to Infer Real-time Changes in Beach Bathymetry - Fiber Optics in the Nearshore (655293)
Jeremy Smith, Stanford University, Civil & Environmental Engineering, Stanford, CA, United States, Meagan E. Wengrove, Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States, Cara Walter, Oregon State University, Corvallis, United States, John S Selker, Oregon State University, Biological and Ecological Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States and Frank Selker, SelkerMetrics, LLC, Portland, OR, United States
 
Behavioral Modes of Shoreline-Sandbar Coupling on a Single-Barred Beach in Baja California (655376)
Amaia Ruiz De Alegria-Arzaburu, Univerisdad Autónoma de Baja California, Instituto de Investigaciones Oceanológicas, Ensenada, Mexico and Jesus Adrián Vidal-Ruiz, Universidad Autónoma de Baja California, Instituto de Investigaciones Oceanológicas, Ensenada, BJ, Mexico
 
Uncertainty in Phase-Resolving Numerical Modeling of Coastal Flooding and Erosion (655379)
Jantien Rutten, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Instituto de Ingeniería, Sisal, YC, Mexico, Alec Torres-Freyermuth, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Institute of Engineering, Sisal, YC, Mexico and Jack Anthony Puleo, Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States
 
Hydrodynamics of a Tidally-driven Alongshore Flow over a Fringing Coral Reef (655477)
Andre Miguel Amador, University of California San Diego, Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, La Jolla, CA, United States, Geno R Pawlak, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA, United States, Isabella Beatriz Arzeno, University of California, San Diego, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, San Diego, CA, United States, Sarah N Giddings, University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States and Mark Merrifield, University of California San Diego, Integrative Oceanography Division, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Examining Wave Attenuation Rates and Subsurface Pore Pressures Across Three Marsh Restoration Sill Structures on a Sandy Bed. (655495)
Jordan Converse, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, United States, Tyler Will Miesse, George Mason University Fairfax, Fairfax, VA, United States and Meagan E. Wengrove, Oregon State University, Civil & Construction Engineering, Corvallis, OR, United States
 
Effects of Sea Level Rise on Modeled Storm Surge and Current Speeds in New Hampshire Estuaries (656190)
Thomas Charles Lippmann1, Anna Simpson2, Salme Cook1 and Paul H Kirshen3, (1)University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH, United States, (2)Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, United States, (3)University of Massachusetts Boston, School for the Environment, Boston, MA, United States
 
Waves on Vertically Sheared Flows: Implications for Phase-Averaged Models (656658)
Saeideh Banihashemi, University of Washington, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Seattle, WA, United States and Nirnimesh Kumar, University of Washington, Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Seattle, WA, United States
 
The influence of vegetation and wind waves on the distribution of bed shear stress on estuarine mudflats. (656736)
Salme Cook, University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Durham, NH, United States and Thomas Charles Lippmann, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH, United States
 
Observations of Vertical Pressure Gradients on an Intertidal Beach Face (656946)
Diane L Foster1, Garrett Frohman2 and Corina Gudinas2, (1)University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Durham, NH, United States, (2)University of New Hampshire, Ocean Engineering, Durham, NH, United States
 
Inter-annual variability in the stratification regime off the Mid-Atlantic Bight shelf. (656967)
Ajoy Kumar, Millersville University of Pennsylvania, Millersville, PA, United States
 
Do munitions move in mud? Field observations of munition surrogate mobility in cohesive sediment within an energetic estuarine setting. (656992)
Arthur C Trembanis and Carter DuVal, University of Delaware, School of Marine Science and Policy, Newark, DE, United States
 
Preliminary Assessment of Scalar Transport across the Sediment-Water Interface of Rippled Beds (657061)
Sylvia Rodriguez-Abudo1, Juan Carlos Vargas Martinez2, Edwin Aponte2 and Brandon Santaliz3, (1)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Department of Engineering Sciences and Materials, Mayaguez, PR, United States, (2)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Department of Mechanical Engineering, Mayaguez, PR, United States, (3)University of Puerto Rico-Mayaguez, Department of Mechanical Engineering, United States
 
A simplified method to predict sandbar migration: The Duck, NC case (657077)
Viyaktha Hithaishi Hewageegana, University of Florida, Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States and Alberto Canestrelli, University of Florida, Civil and Coastal Engineering, Gainesville, FL, United States
 
Understanding change: The effect of invasive algae removal on water circulation in a Native Hawaiian Fishpond (657083)
Diana Lopera, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Oceanography, Honolulu, HI, United States, Yoshimi M Rii, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Oceanography, Honolulu, HI, Margaret Anne McManus, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Department of Oceanography, Honolulu, HI, United States, Keli'iahonui Kotubetey, Paepae O He'eia, Kaneohe, HI, United States, Paulo Maurin, NOAA, Office for Coastal Management, Honolulu, HI, United States and Rosie Alegado, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI, United States
 
Resolving the Role of Dynamic Pressure on Positional State Changes of Submerged Objects (657198)
Angela Sarni, University of New Hampshire Main Campus, Durham, NH, United States and Diane L Foster, University of New Hampshire, Durham, NH, United States
 
Fate and Transport of Enterococcus spp. at a Tropical Sandy Beach (657264)
Priscila Vargas, University of Puerto Rico, Department of Civil Engineering and Surveying, Mayaguez, PR, United States, Sylvia Rodriguez-Abudo, University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Department of Engineering Sciences and Materials, Mayaguez, PR, United States, Peter Gabriel Rivera Casillas, University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Mayaguez, PR, United States and Patricia Chardon-Maldonado, Univ of DE-Civil & Envir Engrg, Newark, DE, United States
 
Interaction of combined waves and current with high-relief bottom roughness (657564)
Johanna H Rosman, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Institute of Marine Sciences, Chapel Hill, NC, United States, Xiao Yu, University of Florida, Engineering School of Sustainable Infrastructure & Environment, Gainesville, FL, United States and James L Hench, Duke University, Nicholas School of the Environment, Beaufort, NC, United States
 
Nearshore coastal dispersion enhanced through estuarine trapping/pumping (657724)
Sarah N Giddings, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA, United States, Falk Feddersen, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA, United States, Xiaodong Wu, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, United States, Nirnimesh Kumar, Scripps Institute of Oceanography, Columbia, SC, United States and Derek Jeffrey Grimes, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Integrative Oceanography Division, La Jolla, CA, United States
 
Observed modifications to the Northwest Luzon Coastal Current from the interaction of wind and eddy fields (657793)
Leilani Solera1, Cesar Villanoy1, Charina Lyn A Repollo1, Olivia C Cabrera2 and Scientific Team of the RSVP/GV201705 research cruise , (1)Marine Science Institute, University of the Philippines, Quezon City, Philippines, (2)Institute of Environmental Science and Meteorology, University of the Philippines, Quezon City, Philippines
 
Relative Dispersion Over the Inner Shelf: Wave Forcing, Anisotropy and Variations with Offshore Distance (657813)
Carter Ohlmann1, Leonel Romero1, Enric Pallas Sanz2 and Paula Perez-Brunius2, (1)University of California Santa Barbara, Earth Research Institute, Santa Barbara, CA, United States, (2)Center for Scientific Research and Higher Education at Ensenada, Physical Oceanography, Ensenada, BJ, Mexico
 
A Detailed Investigation of Surf Zone Hydrodynamics using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics Simulations (658077)
Ryan Lowe, The University of Western Australia, Oceans Graduate School, School of Earth Sciences, and UWA Oceans Institute, Perth, WA, Australia, Mark L Buckley, University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia, Corrado Altomare, Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya – Barcelona Tech, Spain, Dirk Rijnsdorp, The University of Western Australia, WA, Australia, Yu Yao, Changsha University of Science and Technology, Changsha, China, Tomohiro Suzuki, Flanders Hydraulics Research, Belgium and Jeremy Bricker, Delft University of Technology, Delft, Netherlands
 
Experimental study on the effects of infragravity waves on the merging of multiple bores and the resulting runup (658201)
Chuan Li1, H Tuba Ozkan-Haller1, Pedro Lomonaco2, Timothy B Maddux1, Robert A Holman3, Peter Ruggiero4 and Gabriel Garcia-Medina5, (1)Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, United States, (2)Universidad de Cantabria, Environmental Hydraulics Institute (IH Cantabria), Santander, Spain, (3)Oregon State Univ, Corvallis, OR, United States, (4)Oregon State University, College of Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences, Corvallis, OR, United States, (5)Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, Seattle, WA, United States